Now it is time something a bit more challenging. Shoulder pads and one-piece moulds.
This is pretty straightforward, but not easy at all; the pads have a curved surface and superglue tends to stick to everywhere. Be prepared to lose some of the more delicate symbols. Luckily you can salvage the messed up shoulderpads with the help of a small piece of grade 1000 sanding paper.
As usual there is a trick that may help: I glue only the central areas of the symbols first and place them properly on the shoulderpad. Once the glue sets and the symbol is fixed in place glue the edges with a toothpick and position them. In general it pays not to use the super glue jar on small pits and pieces.
Anyway here you see the outcome. I'm pretty satisfied on this point.
On the top of the wooden piece fix a tin strip of plasticard, 1 mm wide ad roughly the same of length as the balsa piece and glue it on the wood, on it's side.
Cut a piece of plasticard that fits exactly into the opening between the LEGO blocks, glue the balsa stick into the middle of the plasticard piece and you have just finished your master.
By the way it is useful to regularly blow the surface of the latex as it explodes the bubbles. Again you have to wait at least 6-8 hours before you can proceed with casting.
Above you see the mould as it comes out from the LEGO basin, only the bottom pasticard is removed. When you remove the master from the mould you'll need to use a hobby knife to cut through a thin layer of rubber between the shoulderpads and the strip of plasticard they are sitting on. It is quite easy, be neat.
Now this is how it looks like after a bit of trimming with pirated manicure scissors:
Prior casting you talc the mould similarly to the open faced ones. The difference of course is that you have to stretch open the mould and brush the inside with the powdering brush. face down tap out the
Similarly to the insignia shown earlier your shoulderpads are best cast by a syringe. Open the mould a bit, push the tube of the syringe into the openings, and inject the resin into them, and fill up the casting basin too. Tap the mould on the side and from under, and repeatedly open and close the mouth of the mold to let the bubbles out. This should give you perfect results.
You can finish the shoulderpads by hand and make a new mould of them, since if you use a good quality latex and de-air it properly the new mould should be practically the same quality. These below are the first finished products, as I want to start painting tactic squads soon. I think they are rather good.
To sum up, one piece molds are perfect for cylindrical or spherical shapes like heads or one piece torsos, as there are no mould lines. Unfortunately complex or very delicate items can not be duplicated this way. Fortunately two piece molds solve this problem, and I will do the best I can to help you to shorten the learning curve.
Designing a chapter part 3. - Resin casting your insignia